When Melbourne is cold and grey, Sri Lanka's east coast is at its best. From June to September the south-west monsoon brings rain to Colombo and the south, but the east coast stays dry and sunny. The seas are calm on the bays, the surf is pumping at Arugam Bay, and some of the island's biggest festivals and wildlife events happen at the same time.
Why the east coast in mid-year?
Sri Lanka has two monsoons. From about May to September, the south-west monsoon soaks the west and south coasts while the mountains shelter the east. That makes mid-year the perfect time for Australians on winter school holidays or a break from the cold.
Where to go
Arugam Bay
Arugam Bay is the east coast's surf capital. The main point break offers long right-handers, and nearby Whiskey Point, Peanut Farm and Elephant Rock suit different levels. Between sessions, the laid-back village has cafés, yoga and lagoon trips where you may spot elephants and crocodiles.
Trincomalee and Nilaveli
Further north, Trincomalee has one of the world's finest natural harbours and white beaches at Uppuveli and Nilaveli. From Nilaveli, boats run to Pigeon Island National Park for snorkelling over coral with reef sharks and turtles. Whales are sometimes seen off Trincomalee in the first half of the year.
Pasikudah
Pasikudah's bay is shallow and calm for a long way out, which makes it ideal for families with young children.
Festivals and wildlife at the same time
- Minneriya elephant gathering: from about July to September, large herds gather on the grasslands of Minneriya and Kaudulla as the lakes shrink. It is one of Asia's great wildlife sights.
- Kandy Esala Perahera: usually in July or August, Kandy's huge night procession of dancers, drummers and decorated elephants honours the Sacred Tooth Relic.
- Kataragama festival: also in July or August, with processions and fire-walking.
- Cultural Triangle: Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Dambulla are fairly dry in these months too.
Yala National Park usually closes for part of September and October each year, so plan safaris there earlier in the season or visit Udawalawe instead.
Practical tips
- Flights: SriLankan Airlines flies nonstop from Melbourne to Colombo. The east coast is about 6 to 8 hours' drive from Colombo, or take a domestic flight.
- ETA: free for Australian passport holders. Apply at eta.gov.lk before you fly.
- Book early: July and August are busy because of the Perahera and the surf season.
- Parks: national park entry is about US$25 plus 18% tax for foreign adults. Parks open from 6am to 6pm.
- Sun: the tropical sun is strong, so pack reef-safe sunscreen.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is June a good time to visit Sri Lanka?
Yes, if you base yourself on the east coast. It is dry and sunny there, while the west and south coasts get monsoon rain.
When is the surf season in Arugam Bay?
Arugam Bay's main surf season runs from about May to September, with the most consistent waves in the middle of the year.
When is the Kandy Esala Perahera?
It is usually held in July or August, timed by the full moon. Dates change every year, so check before you book.
Can I see elephants in July and August?
Yes. The elephant gathering at Minneriya and Kaudulla peaks around these months, when hundreds of elephants come to graze by the shrinking lakes.
